Balkans Road Trip — Dubrovnik, Montenegro & Albania

The Route

Start in Dubrovnik. End in Albania.

Dubrovnik is the perfect home base — stunning city, central location, and close enough to everything worth seeing. From there, work your way south through Montenegro's walled towns and dramatic mountain valleys, and keep going into Albania. Most people stop before Albania. Don't. It's the best part.

One thing I wish I'd done: get out on the water in Croatia or Montenegro. Apparently there are incredible sea caves and hidden coves to explore. Next time.

↓ Tap a pin to orient yourself, then scroll

Stop 01

Croatia.

Dubrovnik

Old City · Your base for the whole trip

"I don't know what to recommend in a place like this besides just walk around. Duck down narrow stone alleyways, climb random staircases, find small cafes tucked into side streets."

The old city is incredible — one of those places that earns every bit of its reputation. I was there in 2021 when cruise ships weren't allowed, so take my crowd assessment with a grain of salt. Three specific spots worth finding: the hidden cove with the green door on the water (it's an art studio, but the setting alone is worth it), the viewpoint above the city walls looking down at the harbor, and Bosanka Viewpoint above the entire city — the panorama from up there is stunning.

Home BaseUse Dubrovnik as your central hub. Great location for day trips in every direction.

Three Spots Worth FindingThe Green Door cove · Walls harbor viewpoint · Bosanka Viewpoint above the city

CrowdsCan get very busy when cruise ships are in port. Go early morning for the old city.

The Green Door Bosanka Viewpoint

Split.

Croatia · ~3 hrs north of Dubrovnik

"A smaller version of Dubrovnik. Super quaint. Get lost for a few hours — wander the narrow limestone streets, peek down side alleys, and you'll stumble upon something interesting."

Worth a stop if you're making your way up the Croatian coast. Similar wandering energy to Dubrovnik but with fewer crowds and a more local feel.

VibeSmaller, quieter version of Dubrovnik. A few hours is enough.

What to DoWander the old city. No agenda needed — just explore.

Plitvice Lakes & Krka NP.

Croatia · Two National Parks Worth Doing

Plitvice Lakes NP

Krka NP

Krka NP

"Hard to describe because I haven't experienced anything else like it — wooden boardwalks wind directly over turquoise lakes, taking you from waterfall to waterfall through the forest."

Both parks share the same DNA: turquoise water, wooden boardwalks threading through lush forest, and waterfalls around every corner. Plitvice is the more famous of the two — a cascading series of lakes connected by falls, with paths winding directly over the water. Krka has a similar feel but is slightly less trafficked, and on my visit it edged Plitvice out simply because the greenery hadn't fully come in yet. Both are genuinely worth it — if you only have time for one, go in late spring when everything is at full color.

Plitvice Lakes NPThe more famous of the two. Turquoise lakes connected by waterfalls and wooden boardwalks. Book tickets in advance — it sells out.

Krka NPSlightly less crowded, similar experience. Gave it the edge on my visit. Worth doing if you have time for both.

Best TimeLate spring for full greenery and high water flow. Both can get crowded in peak summer.

Plitvice Lakes Krka NP

Stop 02

Montenegro.

Kotor & Budva

Bay of Kotor · ~2.5 hrs from Dubrovnik

"Amazing place — I was just surprised by how big the mountains were surrounding the city. The bay, the walls, the peaks behind it. Genuinely stunning."

Kotor draws cruise ship crowds so the old city can get overwhelming fast. The move is to skip most of the tourists and hike up to Kotor Fortress — significantly fewer people, great views of the city and the bay, and some really interesting ruins at the top. Then head 20 minutes south to Budva — less crowded, a really cool old town, and worth wandering for a couple hours. It's the more relaxed version of Kotor and an easy add-on.

Kotor FortressThe best part of Kotor. Hike up for views of the bay and far fewer crowds than the old city.

Budva20 min south of Kotor. Less crowded, cool old town. A natural add-on — don't skip it.

CrowdsGets packed when cruise ships dock. Time your visit accordingly.

Kotor Fortress

Grebaje Valley.

Montenegro · Near Gusinje · ~3 hrs from Kotor

"Incredibly dramatic peaks — one mountain ridge about 15 miles long that's absolutely incredible. Go after June. The drive alone is an experience."

Worth the stop, but I'd temper expectations slightly: the dramatic ridge is spectacular, but the surrounding landscape doesn't quite match Theth. The village is small with limited tourism infrastructure — which is also part of its appeal. Go after June when the area is fully green. The road in is in surprisingly perfect condition despite relentless switchbacks — I legitimately got tired of all the ups and downs.

The Hike3 Peaks Loop · 6.4 miles · 3,195 ft elevation gain

Best TimeAfter June when the area is fully green. We went too early.

Where to StayWild Beauty — nice, clean, newer cabins. Best option in the area.

AllTrails Wild Beauty Cabins

Stop 03

Albania.

The Valley

Theth.

Village · Swiss Alps vibes, Albanian soul

"One of the cooler places I've ever been. Reminded me of Switzerland — but wilder, less developed, and somehow even more dramatic."

Albania doesn't get enough credit. Most people on the Balkans circuit stop at Montenegro and turn around. Don't. Theth is a small village tucked into the Albanian Alps that feels completely removed from the tourist trail. Stay at Molla House — I don't usually recommend specific BnBs, but this one is exceptional. $85 a night, massive homemade breakfast spread, on a little stream, incredible mountain views, and genuinely some of the warmest hospitality I've experienced anywhere. The slow-roasted goat — Mish Kecit — is enough for three people and worth getting.

Where to StayMolla House BnB · $85/night · Homemade breakfast, stream-side, mountain views. Book ahead.

What to EatMish Kecit — slow roasted goat. Enough for three people. Worth the experience.

VibeRemote village, minimal tourism infrastructure, incredibly hospitable people. Nothing like it on the trip.

Molla House

The Hike

Valbona Pass.

~9 miles · 3,500 ft · One of the best international hikes I've done

"One of the cooler hikes I've been on internationally. The views from the top are insane — and the way to get the best view isn't obvious."

We went to the top of the pass and came back — about 9 miles round trip with 3,500 feet of gain. At the summit, the key detail: hike up and to the right of the flag. There's a small rocky outcropping that gives you the best view. Slight exposure if you're scared of heights but nothing crazy. You can also continue into the village of Valbona on the other side — only accessible by trail — but we didn't go that direction.

Distance~9 miles round trip

Elevation Gain3,500 ft

Pro TipAt the summit, go right of the flag to the rocky outcropping — that's where the best view is. Don't just stop at the pass.

Valbona Pass on AllTrails

Field Note — Valbona Pass

On my morning prayer walk I met a dog. He followed me back to the hotel, sat through breakfast, and I assumed that was the end of it. We started the hike and figured he'd peel off eventually — 3,500 feet of vert, no way he's coming. Wrong. He hiked every step with us. Near the top he disappeared and I thought he'd finally given up. Then, fifteen minutes after we reached the outcropping at the summit, he appeared out of nowhere and flopped down next to us. I found out later this is pretty common — the dogs in Theth just adopt hikers for the day and follow them to the top. Absolutely wild.

Worth Knowing

Honorable mentions.

Second-tier stops — not my highlights, but worth considering if you're making the full drive through Bosnia and Herzegovina or just want to see more. If your time is limited, prioritize Croatia, Montenegro's coast, and Theth above everything else.

Mostar

Bosnia & Herzegovina

Cool little old city vibe. People jumping off the famous bridge. Worth a quick stop — but like Kotor, insanely crowded. Bring cash — card payment is difficult outside major cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Euro is accepted.

Sutjeska National Park

Bosnia & Herzegovina · Prejerov Plateau

Really cool viewpoint — difficult to get to in a rental car. About 8 miles of rough road, we parked 2 miles short and walked. Stayed at Camp Nomad Sutjeska, which was great. We arrived 6 euros short on cash, no money for dinner, and the restaurant owner fed us for free. Super hospitable people out there.

Camp Nomad Sutjeska

Durmitor NP

Montenegro

Not mind-blowing on its own, but worth a stop if you're driving between Albania and Bosnia. Check out the bridge, spend 30 minutes, and keep moving.

The Bridge

Photo: Marie Volkert / Unsplash

South Albania

Albania · Riviera

Haven't been yet — apparently it's stunning and feels more like Greece. Another trip. If you've done Theth and have more time, heading south through Gjirokastra and along the Riviera is reportedly worth it.

Croatia · Montenegro · Albania.