Journal Adventures About
New Zealand · South Island

N. End of the
South Island.

The part most people drive straight through on the way to somewhere else. That's the mistake.

Cape Farewell · French Pass · Abel Tasman

We had no plan.
That was the whole point.

We'd just finished the West Coast and were heading toward Abel Tasman. Looked at the map and noticed this little peninsula jutting out at the top. "Wonder what's up there?" Two of the most unexpected experiences of the entire trip were about to happen.

Stop 01

Cape Farewell + Wharariki Beach.

Puponga · Golden Bay · Top of the South Island

Cape Farewell golden hour New Zealand
Rolling hills Cape Farewell sheep
Wharariki Beach sunset New Zealand

"We pulled up and it was nice and green but nothing special. Then BAM. Where in the crap are we? This is insane."

We'd started driving faster because it didn't look like much. The road goes on for a while and there's no indication of what's coming. Then the headland opens up — perfect green grass dropping away to limestone cliffs about 100 feet above the most dramatic rocky coastline I've ever seen. Golden hour. Sheep grazing. And hills.

The hills are the thing. Every time we crested one, there was another one 100 yards away with a view that seemed even better. So we ran to it. Then there was another one. So we ran to that one too. We were just sprinting around this headland at golden hour like two idiots and it was one of the best hours of the entire trip.

As the sun got low we realized there was a beach. Half a mile away. Sun was setting. We ran again. Made it just after it dropped below the horizon — Wharariki Beach, sea stacks rising out of the sand, completely deserted. The epic photo happened here.

The Headland
Cape Farewell — the northernmost point of the South Island. Park at the Pillar Point lighthouse car park and walk the headland.
The Beach
Wharariki Beach — ~30 min walk from the car park through farmland. Go at sunset. Sea stacks, sand dunes, and almost no one there.
Best Time
Golden hour into sunset. Give yourself at least 2–3 hours for the headland walk and the beach.
Honest Take
One of the most unexpectedly incredible places I've been. Don't skip it because the drive looks boring — it is, until suddenly it isn't.
Cape Farewell    Wharariki Beach

I'm not sure I ever want to go back to Cape Farewell. It was so perfect I'm almost scared it would ruin the memory. That's the best thing you can say about a place.

Stop 02

French Pass.

Marlborough · D'Urville Island · Top of the South Island

French Pass New Zealand sunrise
French Pass Marlborough Sounds

"We jumped on the road and just drove. No place to stay in mind, no idea where we were going. Just the drive and the adventure ahead."

We hadn't even heard of French Pass — we just saw a road curving off the map toward something that looked interesting. What followed was one of the best drives of the entire trip. The road winds along farms and ocean through rolling hills that are genuinely hard to describe — like someone designed them to be photogenic. We stopped constantly. Even driving I couldn't stop taking photos out the window.

The wind was absolutely howling — 30mph gusts — and we were just laughing the whole time. Made it to the end as the last light disappeared. Woke up to an epic sunrise on a secluded beach. I honestly don't even remember where we stayed — it didn't matter.

Note: Marlborough Sounds is the broader region — French Pass sits at its western edge, a narrow strait between the mainland and D'Urville Island. The Sounds stretch east from here toward Picton.

The Drive
About 1.5 hours from Nelson along a winding coastal road. The drive itself is the experience — don't rush it.
The Pass
A narrow tidal channel between the mainland and D'Urville Island with strong currents. Dramatic viewpoint at the end of the road.
Stay the Night
Worth it for the sunrise. There's a small DOC campsite and a few basic accommodation options at the end of the road.
Honest Take
Most people skip this entirely for Marlborough Sounds. That's a mistake. This is wilder, less visited, and more memorable.
Open in Maps
Stop 03

Abel Tasman.

Nelson · Top of the South Island · New Zealand's Smallest National Park

Abel Tasman National Park
Photo: Sagittarius Voyage / Unsplash

Honest take: we got there and moved on. Looking back at photos, we just didn't know where to go — you need to get on the water or do a proper section of the coast track to experience what makes it special. Still on the list to go back and actually do it right.

That said — it's famous for a reason and worth including here for anyone who has more time than we did.

Best Option
Water taxi to Bark Bay or Onetahuti, walk back along the coast track. Full day, see the best of it.
Base Town
Marahau or Kaiteriteri — both have water taxi operators and accommodation.
Book Ahead
Huts on the Great Walk fill up fast in summer. Water taxis are easier last-minute.
Open in Maps

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