Pat flew in and we decided our Teton adventure would be the Cascade–Paintbrush Canyon Loop — 20 miles over two days with a night in the backcountry. An audacious goal for a couple of Georgia boys. The rangers warned us about snow on the trail, but that only made me want to do it more. It felt like they were trying to convince us not to go. Don't tell me I can't do something I've been dreaming about for months. We rented ice axes from Dornan's, picked up bear canisters neither of us had ever used before, and headed into the mountains.
The first part was exactly what we'd imagined — alpine lakes, towering peaks, and endless views. The higher we climbed, though, the less trail we saw. Eventually the route disappeared beneath the snow and we were left guessing where it went. Neither of us had ever hiked on snow before, and we wandered up the canyon until we spotted a set of footprints ahead of us. We called them "angel tracks" and followed them up the mountain, picking up bits of trail whenever they emerged from the snow. By the time we reached Paintbrush Divide it was after 9 p.m. and we were exhausted. We were nearly to the top when a 20-foot snowfield completely covered the trail. It was too exposed to cross safely. We'd spent so much time navigating the snow that we'd nearly run out of daylight. So we turned around, dropped a thousand feet, pitched camp in a grassy meadow below, and hiked out the next morning.
On the way down we ran into a ranger heading up the canyon. We asked where he was going. "Paintbrush Divide," he said — it was going to be their first crossing of the season and they were roping up to clear the route. The rangers hadn't even been up there yet. We felt like absolute beasts.
We didn't make the Divide, but somehow that news felt almost as good as making it. Two Georgia boys, a pair of rented ice axes, and a new badge of honor.
"Fast forward nine years — I moved to Jackson. I refused to do that loop again until I could do it with Pat. Turned down invitations two summers in a row. We finally did it in 2021, in a single day. And we recreated the exact same photo."